Many people follow the Zen-like axiom that you should find something you love and turn it into your bread and butter. But who are the lucky dream followers who actually make this happen?
For Erik Ogershok, it’s been 20 years in the making. As the head brewer for Real Ale Brewing Co. in Blanco, Texas, Ogershok is renowned throughout the state for creating craft beers that engender cult-like followings, including Hans Pils and The Kraken. But despite a string of well-loved, high-profile brewing gigs, he’s always harbored dreams of something a little more, well, personal.
“I thought about doing my own thing when I moved to Texas in 2000,” he says, “but laws in Texas were not really favorable at the time.”
Ogershok had moved to Texas in 2000 to work for Pierre Celis only to find that Celis had sold his brewery to Miller, leaving Ogershok without a gig. This was after resigning the position of head brewer with Victory Brewing in Pennsylvania. Rather than opening his own brewery, he spent that time building a strong foundation in Texas with stints at Live Oak Brewing Company and Real Ale. Then, in 2005, he began a prosperous 10-year committed run in the big rubber boots at Real Ale. There, he created somewhat of an empire, crafting modern spins on classic beer styles, all from what he describes as a glorified homebrew setup in a basement.
But when his friend and entrepreneur Ken Bridge approached him about opening a brewpub in Houston recently, he couldn’t turn down the opportunity. “How can you say no to doing whatever you want?” he asks.
The new concept, Four Phantoms, will incorporate Ogershok’s twin loves of beer and music. Brewing is really a lifestyle job, he says, and being able to integrate all of his passions is a win. So what’s on tap?
“I can’t not make a hoppy pils,” he says, referring to Hans Pils, which was a huge part of his history and success at Real Ale. But he also wants to continue to explore more esoteric beers similar to the badass Blakkr and Mysterium Verum, with plans to feature select local guest taps. “I’m 100 percent pro–Texas brewing,” he says.
He’ll be pushing production to the legal limit with 10,000 barrels a year, brewed on the same system he used at Victory 15 years ago. He’d like to package his beer right away, serving for both on- and off-site consumption. But Texas laws—while vastly improved—are still not particularly amenable to this.
“I came from a place where if you wanted to be both production brewery and brewpub, you just got two permits,” he says, noting that Texas has a much more strict separation of licenses. “I can now serve onsite and distribute, but annual production is capped.”
As far as the vibe is concerned, music will play a big role though Ogershok insists it will not be heavy metal themed. (Word is still out on whether his band, Canyon of the Skull, will make appearances.)
So what about bites to go with your brews? That’s still in the works, but Ogershok says there will be typical bar fare like pizza along with seasonal specialties to pair with the beer.
“This may sound funny,” he says, “but I have an agreement with Ken that he will stay out of the way with beer, and I’ll stay out of the way when it comes to food. I plan to keep my nose out of kitchen ops, but I will work with them as far as pairing stuff goes.”
In the end, everything about the food, beer and decor should be welcoming. “Brewing is inclusive, not exclusive. We have to remember what got us here and that’s being the beverage of the people,” he says.
And if all goes to plan, Erik Ogershok will welcome us to his new place in the next 10 to 12 months. Cheers to that!
